Beijing - 22nd to the 24th August 2018
Our first day in Beijing!
A combination of the shift in schedule and our room not being available, meant that we got to the hotel and had time just to drop off the luggage before starting our afternoon visit to some of the most iconic sights in Beijing, with our precious english speaking leader. Lucy is going to be our guide for the duration of our time here in Beijing. She seemed to laugh a lot at my very ‘not funny’ jokes...not sure what to make of that :-).
As we didn’t have time to do anything with our luggage, I ended up carrying both my travel backpack with a change of clothes, documents, money etc and my camera bag with lenses etc... it was the longest, hottest and most humid 4 hours of my life! And it seemed to make the guide laugh even more as I quickly started to melt under the strain and the heat.
We visited Tianamen Square (huge!), the Forbidden City (amazing!) and Jingshan Park (hot!)...the latter required climbing 260 steps to a building overlooking the Forbidden City...on the way I must have sweated out another litre of water :-).
First impressions: indigenous population very rude and crude...
They would bump into you and wouldn’t even acknowledge the fact...would push you out of the way for photos, taxis, anything...not a word of sorrow...spitting etc are pretting common also (men and women).
We reached the pinnacle of crudeness at dinner: we let ourselves be directed to the nearest duck restaurant. I won’t even comment that no one, and I mean no one, speaks a word of english (we were in an upmarket restaurant in a mall next to the hotel), but to top it all they sat us down in a shared table (Wagamama style), right between two chinese families.Their table manners were beyond belief...the funny thing was that the restaurant was huge and the ONLY shared table was that one! Why us? ...would be the question to ask...if only we had taken the trouble to learn Mandarin!!!
Ordering was an interesting experience: one waitress brought a menu that looked like a volume from an encyclopedia. She then sent over a colleague to help us in english and who spoke no english at all :-). It took a while to understand if we had actually ordered any food but we did not go hungry...fear not!
After dinner, we took a short walk to look for bottled water but made our way back to the hotel pretty swiftly. I can’t even describe my level of tiredness at the end of this first day...The room is awesome...the hotel amazing! And the bed soft...
The Great Wall and so much more!
We had an early start today as we wanted to avoid overheating and over crowding...
On the menu for the day: the great wall and the summer palace!
The ride out to the section of the wall we would be visiting took about an hour and a half (Mutianyu). We got there ahead of the crowds. Nothing prepares you for the majesty of this iconic sight. The original length of the wall is 6,000km but you just wonder how it was possible to build such a chunky structure on the mountains in an era of no trucks or cranes...every single rock taken up by thousands of men forced to work on the structure. And, let me tell you, even just walking along it, not an easy task! They didn’t take the trouble to flatten out the sections between the towers as they were building it! There is a lot of steep up and down walking...and again...sweating! :-)
Daredevil stunt of the day: using the chinese chairlift to get to the wall! It looked a little rickety but it held up for our ride at least.
Mr Liu (our driver for the next couple of days) was waiting for us at the bottom to take us to the Summer Palace. We stopped just before for a quick lunch as the suggestion that we may skip lunch and go directly to dinner had sent us into a bit of a panic (well not panic but at least concern). Lucy took us to a dumpling place that works a little like a MacDonalds for dim sum. You pick your filling, you drink and before you know it you are gobbling down some of the nicest dumplings I have ever eaten. The one curious thing about the place was that they did not serve/sell water...only a choice of 6 juices.
We walked over to the Summer Palace entrance a few minutes away. It was very very crowded. As you walk through the first few courtyards you catch sight of a beautiful lake. There are drangon boats and all sorts of floating vessels taking tourists around. This palace and it’s grounds were used as a relaxing summer getaway by the Qianlong Emperor and they were was originally built as a gift for his mother. He came here to rest and took his empress and his top concubines only. This place is also closely tied with the Dragon Lady...a woman that makes Lucrezia Borgia look like a saint! She rose from nothingness to being the emperor’s favourite concubine and gave him a son (his first) that allowed her to rule the country in the background (the son was only 6 when he became emperor). If you want to know more, it’s worth a read...google her!
Our day would have normally ended here, but we had asked Super Lucy to take us to a train station to pick up the train tickets we would need in the days coming and to arrange for us to see some chinese acrobats!
Beijing South station must be at least twice the size of Terminal 5 at Heathrow! Huge. There is security to get in even if you are not getting on a train (x-ray etc). The station was absolutely packed! Luckily it didn’t take us long to have the tickets printed but we hit a snag when we tried to get out the same way we came in. In China you follow rules! So...there is a way in and a way out...and we had to walk all the way to the opposite side of the station despite our guide’s best efforts to convince the security people otherwise.
...so the acrobats! We turned up to the theatre well ahead of time because although you book a certain class of tickets, the seats are not numbered...so the sooner you get there the better! We had a surreal experience. First of all a chap got on stage and talked (in chinese) for about 20 minutes about calligraphy (we only found that out later due to our ignorance in mandarin). Then the show started, but, as the calligraphy artist was also selling his work, for the next 40 minutes, people would randomly get up (and therefore have the whole row move) to go and buy his work. All of this with the performance going on and the rest of the crowd chatting away loudly. There was very little clapping for the performers as the people were paying very little attention...the show itself was a scaled down version of cirque du soleil. A little rougher round the hedges but pretty good. We really enjoyed it in between having to get up to let people through!!! Last but not least, they all got up to leave just as the last performer finished...no time to have the performers do their customary bow at the end of the show. Never been in a theatre with such a performance by the audience!
We had a little more luck with getting a taxi than on our first day. We were driven to a restaurant that Lucy had recommended the day before. It isn’t possible to book, but you turn up, take a number and wait your turn...sometimes 2 to 3 hours! We agreed to share a table (second time in two nights) and therefore speeded the process along...and it was worth it. We ordered with Lucy’s help and we had the most awesome meal since we landed! The duck was the best yet! We shared with two chinese families again. This time they were a little more ‘polite’ with their eating habits, with the exception of a 14/15 year old boy that ate like a pig to be completely honest. You can’t have everything I guess!
The hotel was just a five minute walk away so we made our way back to our very comfy room! Another day another dollar they say...new adventures await us tomorrow!
Our last day in Beijing...
Un blog speciale per Raffa: Tempio del Cielo stop. Vecchi nel parco stop. Casette cinesine stop. Buddah giganti stop. Solita cena cinese stop.
For those who have the time, please continue below...
Quite a sleep in this morning! We set off at a very leisurely 9 am for the Temple of Heaven, a place where the Emperor could pray to his heart content without being disturbed. It turned out to be an inspirational place: access to the park in which the Emperor’s Temples are, is open and free to the older generation. You could see groups of women singing together, people exercising, playing cards, etc. It’s a place for the older generation to gather, be in the open air and not feel lonely.
Scary realisation: a man of about 80 years old was doing a split...I couldn’t do that even at 15!
Old Beijing was a pleasant change of scenery. We visited the main pedestrianised street of single storey houses and shops which runs parallel to a lake. Busy but not mobbed like everywhere else. It gave you more of a feel of a different time...before the condos and skyscrapers took over Beijing.
We finished off our sightseeing day with the Lama Temple. It’s a buddhist Temple. The buildings are in a sequence that sees gradually bigger Buddhas on display. The tallest one is 18 metres high and cut out of a single tree (feel free to look it up in the Guiness book of records).
Personal record of the day: surviving the 38 degrees outside!
As we got back relatively early today, and for the first time since our arrival in Beijing, we had some free time! Me and Lucia had a different view on how to make good use of it: she went to the gym...I did not!
For dinner, our aim was to try one speciality that had escaped us so far: the hot pot. Lucy had recommended a place famous for it and we set off with the best intentions. We ended up eating in the correct mall but NOT in the right restaurant...needless to say there was no English spoken...and in an attempt to get water, we were brought about 3 different things, none of which resembled water. However, we did not go hungry! Again! ...thanks to the power of indicating photographs of food!
On our stroll back to the hotel, we saw a side of Beijing we had already glimpsed around our lodgings: luxury and super modern malls. We took a walk down a pedestrianised street where there must have been at least 10 huge shopping centres carrying all the top names: Gucci, Prada, Cartier, Louis Vuitton, Rolex etc...as well as some personal favourites like Zara, Gap and H&M. Maybe this is China’s way to try to get consumption up???
One very last consideration: me and Lucia had come to the conclusion that probably English was not taught at school as even the very basic words (hello, thank you, water...) are a mistery to them. So we asked the guide today. She says they do study it at school for at least 3 or 4 years (in fact the new generations are starting classes from kindergarden), but that they do not speak it because they don’t get to practice it. They must have a channel in their brains that throws unused things out entirely...
We leave tomorrow for Suzhou and Trongli and will be taking our first train...quite a long ride (5 hours). Lets hope we don’t need to speak to anyone! :-)