China

China: an epic journey!
(Beijing to Hong Kong and Sydney)

21st August to the 9th September 2018

Travelling to Beijing from London - 21st/22nd August 2018

We had a comfortable departure that included a stay in the Concorde Lounge at Heathrow. And other than a little engine trouble, the flight to Beijing was uneventful. Our section of the cabin was pretty empty and we managed to get a bit of sleep. However, we did land a little later than scheduled. The heat and humidity really hits you as you leave the terminal. And given the hugeness of the airport, it took an hour and a half to exit and find the driver (Wang) who would take us to the hotel. ‘Smelly’ Wang I should say...the taxi smelt like an ashtray and Wang smelt like he hadn’t washed for a couple of weeks!  

Beijing - 22nd to the 24th August 2018

Our first day in Beijing!

A combination of the shift in schedule and our room not being available, meant that we got to the hotel and had time just to drop off the luggage before starting our afternoon visit to some of the most iconic sights in Beijing, with our precious english speaking leader. Lucy is going to be our guide for the duration of our time here in Beijing. She seemed to laugh a lot at my very ‘not funny’ jokes...not sure what to make of that :-).

As we didn’t have time to do anything with our luggage, I ended up carrying both my travel backpack with a change of clothes, documents, money etc and my camera bag with lenses etc... it was the longest, hottest and most humid 4 hours of my life! And it seemed to make the guide laugh even more as I quickly started to melt under the strain and the heat.

We visited Tianamen Square (huge!), the Forbidden City (amazing!) and Jingshan Park (hot!)...the latter required climbing 260 steps to a building overlooking the Forbidden City...on the way I must have sweated out another litre of water :-).

First impressions: indigenous population very rude and crude...
They would bump into you and wouldn’t even acknowledge the fact...would push you out of the way for photos, taxis, anything...not a word of sorrow...spitting etc are pretting common also (men and women).

We reached the pinnacle of crudeness at dinner: we let ourselves be directed to the nearest duck restaurant. I won’t even comment that no one, and I mean no one, speaks a word of english (we were in an upmarket restaurant in a mall next to the hotel), but to top it all they sat us down in a shared table (Wagamama style), right between two chinese families.Their table manners were beyond belief...the funny thing was that the restaurant was huge and the ONLY shared table was that one! Why us? ...would be the question to ask...if only we had taken the trouble to learn Mandarin!!!

Ordering was an interesting experience: one waitress brought a menu that looked like a volume from an encyclopedia. She then sent over a colleague to help us in english and who spoke no english at all :-). It took a while to understand if we had actually ordered any food but we did not go hungry...fear not!

After dinner, we took a short walk to look for bottled water but made our way back to the hotel pretty swiftly. I can’t even describe my level of tiredness at the end of this first day...The room is awesome...the hotel amazing! And the bed soft...

The Great Wall and so much more!

We had an early start today as we wanted to avoid overheating and over crowding...

On the menu for the day: the great wall and the summer palace!

The ride out to the section of the wall we would be visiting took about an hour and a half (Mutianyu). We got there ahead of the crowds. Nothing prepares you for the majesty of this iconic sight. The original length of the wall is 6,000km but you just wonder how it was possible to build such a chunky structure on the mountains in an era of no trucks or cranes...every single rock taken up by thousands of men forced to work on the structure. And, let me tell you, even just walking along it, not an easy task! They didn’t take the trouble to flatten out the sections between the towers as they were building it! There is a lot of steep up and down walking...and again...sweating! :-) 

Daredevil stunt of the day: using the chinese chairlift to get to the wall! It looked a little rickety but it held up for our ride at least.

Mr Liu (our driver for the next couple of days) was waiting for us at the bottom to take us to the Summer Palace. We stopped just before for a quick lunch as the suggestion that we may skip lunch and go directly to dinner had sent us into a bit of a panic (well not panic but at least concern). Lucy took us to a dumpling place that works a little like a MacDonalds for dim sum. You pick your filling, you drink and before you know it you are gobbling down some of the nicest dumplings I have ever eaten. The one curious thing about the place was that they did not serve/sell water...only a choice of 6 juices.

We walked over to the Summer Palace entrance a few minutes away. It was very very crowded. As you walk through the first few courtyards you catch sight of a beautiful lake. There are drangon boats and all sorts of floating vessels taking tourists around. This palace and it’s grounds were used as a relaxing summer getaway by the Qianlong Emperor and they were was originally built as a gift for his mother. He came here to rest and took his empress and his top concubines only. This place is also closely tied with the Dragon Lady...a woman that makes Lucrezia Borgia look like a saint! She rose from nothingness to being the emperor’s favourite concubine and gave him a son (his first) that allowed her to rule the country in the background (the son was only 6 when he became emperor). If you want to know more, it’s worth a read...google her!

Our day would have normally ended here, but we had asked Super Lucy to take us to a train station to pick up the train tickets we would need in the days coming and to arrange for us to see some chinese acrobats!

Beijing South station must be at least twice the size of Terminal 5 at Heathrow! Huge. There is security to get in even if you are not getting on a train (x-ray etc). The station was absolutely packed! Luckily it didn’t take us long to have the tickets printed but we hit a snag when we tried to get out the same way we came in. In China you follow rules! So...there is a way in and a way out...and we had to walk all the way to the opposite side of the station despite our guide’s best efforts to convince the security people otherwise.

...so the acrobats! We turned up to the theatre well ahead of time because although you book a certain class of tickets, the seats are not numbered...so the sooner you get there the better! We had a surreal experience. First of all a chap got on stage and talked (in chinese) for about 20 minutes about calligraphy (we only found that out later due to our ignorance in mandarin). Then the show started, but, as the calligraphy artist was also selling his work, for the next 40 minutes, people would randomly get up (and therefore have the whole row move) to go and buy his work. All of this with the performance going on and the rest of the crowd chatting away loudly. There was very little clapping for the performers as the people were paying very little attention...the show itself was a scaled down version of cirque du soleil. A little rougher round the hedges but pretty good. We really enjoyed it in between having to get up to let people through!!! Last but not least, they all got up to leave just as the last performer finished...no time to have the performers do their customary bow at the end of the show. Never been in a theatre with such a performance by the audience!

We had a little more luck with getting a taxi than on our first day. We were driven to a restaurant that Lucy had recommended the day before. It isn’t possible to book, but you turn up, take a number and wait your turn...sometimes 2 to 3 hours! We agreed to share a table (second time in two nights) and therefore speeded the process along...and it was worth it. We ordered with Lucy’s help and we had the most awesome meal since we landed! The duck was the best yet! We shared with two chinese families again. This time they were a little more ‘polite’ with their eating habits, with the exception of a 14/15 year old boy that ate like a pig to be completely honest. You can’t have everything I guess!

The hotel was just a five minute walk away so we made our way back to our very comfy room! Another day another dollar they say...new adventures await us tomorrow!

Our last day in Beijing...

Un blog speciale per Raffa: Tempio del Cielo stop. Vecchi nel parco stop. Casette cinesine stop. Buddah giganti stop. Solita cena cinese stop.

For those who have the time, please continue below...

Quite a sleep in this morning! We set off at a very leisurely 9 am for the Temple of Heaven, a place where the Emperor could pray to his heart content without being disturbed. It turned out to be an inspirational place: access to the park in which the Emperor’s Temples are, is open and free to the older generation. You could see groups of women singing together, people exercising, playing cards, etc. It’s a place for the older generation to gather, be in the open air and not feel lonely.

Scary realisation: a man of about 80 years old was doing a split...I couldn’t do that even at 15!

Old Beijing was a pleasant change of scenery. We visited the main pedestrianised street of single storey houses and shops which runs parallel to a lake. Busy but not mobbed like everywhere else. It gave you more of a feel of a different time...before the condos and skyscrapers took over Beijing.

We finished off our sightseeing day with the Lama Temple. It’s a buddhist Temple. The buildings are in a sequence that sees gradually bigger Buddhas on display. The tallest one is 18 metres high and cut out of a single tree (feel free to look it up in the Guiness book of records).

Personal record of the day: surviving the 38 degrees outside!

As we got back relatively early today, and for the first time since our arrival in Beijing, we had some free time! Me and Lucia had a different view on how to make good use of it: she went to the gym...I did not! 

For dinner, our aim was to try one speciality that had escaped us so far: the hot pot. Lucy had recommended a place famous for it and we set off with the best intentions. We ended up eating in the correct mall but NOT in the right restaurant...needless to say there was no English spoken...and in an attempt to get water, we were brought about 3 different things, none of which resembled water. However, we did not go hungry! Again! ...thanks to the power of indicating photographs of food! 

On our stroll back to the hotel, we saw a side of Beijing we had already glimpsed around our lodgings: luxury and super modern malls. We took a walk down a pedestrianised street where there must have been at least 10 huge shopping centres carrying all the top names: Gucci, Prada, Cartier, Louis Vuitton, Rolex etc...as well as some personal favourites like Zara, Gap and H&M. Maybe this is China’s way to try to get consumption up???

One very last consideration: me and Lucia had come to the conclusion that probably English was not taught at school as even the very basic words (hello, thank you, water...) are a mistery to them. So we asked the guide today. She says they do study it at school for at least 3 or 4 years (in fact the new generations are starting classes from kindergarden), but that they do not speak it because they don’t get to practice it. They must have a channel in their brains that throws unused things out entirely...

We leave tomorrow for Suzhou and Trongli and will be taking our first train...quite a long ride (5 hours). Lets hope we don’t need to speak to anyone! :-)

Beijing to Suzhou - 25th August 2018

Travelling day!

Train adventure day, is more accurate :-)!

Some of us went to 7am mass in Mandarin this morning, but I slept in late...and after a quick Starbucks breakfast we made our way to Beijing South station. Despite being a little apprehensive, checking our luggage through security was uneventful. However, it proved a little more difficult to find a suitable lunch establishment. We settled on Burger King. I looked after the luggage and Lucia went off to buy a beef burger and a chicken burger...and came back with two burgers! (a little language situation again).

First class on a Chinese train is nothing to write home about by the way...but the train was on time (a feat I have yet to experience in Italy).

I took advantage of the 5 and a half hour fast train ride (302 km/h) to finally start reading a book and as always took a little nap. Along the way, now and again, cities sprouted up like mushrooms...tall condos grouped together with identical design and colours...very odd. 

Our driver was waiting at the station. Getting our luggage in the car was, as always, challenging (we do not travel light). We ended up with a bag on the front seat this time.

The hotel here in Suzhou (a small town of six million people) is very beautiful and when we arrived there was a lady playing the lute in the entrance hall close to a little pond...very relaxing.

Harris will be our guide for the next 3 days (here and in Shanghai)...and he’s picking us up at 9am...so...goodnight guys!

Suzhou and Trongli - 26th August 2018

The garden city!

Harris picked us up this morning, and was taken by surprise at how much luggage we are travelling with :-).

Suzhou is known as the garden city (there are many gardens!), and it is where most of the architects of the imperial gardens in Beijing have come from. We started off visiting two gardens. It is important to know that by garden they don’t mean our European version. It means a series of wooden buildings connected to each other by courtyards and generally surrounding a pond with fish. It all makes for a very peaceful setting.

We moved onto Tiger Hill and the leaning pagoda (build 200 years before the tower of Pisa but with similar foundation issues). Humidity today was dreadful...climbing to the Pagoda was very sweaty work.

Trongli...or is it Venice?

Trongli was a 40 minute drive away but a completely different setting. Old traditional houses set amongst canals. The original boats used as transport have been replaced by gondolas for tourists, but, despite all of that, it is pretty and relaxing. We had a lovely lunch in a place suggested by Harris and it was lovely to have the pressure taken off and have him order for us. 

We strolled around, visited a few courtyards, did some shopping and yes...we also had a ride on a Gondola. 

Highlight: spending some time with one of the local older artists who hand wrote special charachters (poems) on one or two of our purchases. The paintings also looked amazing...but...alas...our luggage is already at capacity :-).

We then drove on to Shanghai. Our home for the next couple of days. The traffic was terrible...and the rivers/crowds of people walking around are unbelievable. We took a walk after checking into our amazing sleeping quarters (the Fairmont) and had to ‘flow’ with the crowds, directed by the police. Like going to a concert but without the concert...urgh!

Bad choice of the day: we picked our evening dining establishment randomly...not great...worst meal since we arrived in China. But the staff spoke some English...there is a saying: every cloud has a silver lining!

Most amazing view in Shanghai: the skyline by night!

Shanghai - 27th to the 28th August 2018

Walkabout

I started off my day at Starbucks! (and abandoned Lucia for breakfast). I’m feeeling a little tired of having my morning meal in front of people chewing rudely on garlic and onion in the morning. 

Today was a walking and public transport day and we started off along the Bund looking over from our older side of the river over to the new and modern skyscrapers that only started sprouting up in 1999. It’s amazing what they’ve managed to build in less than 20 years.

We took an interesting taxi ride over to the Old Town market and Yu Garden. Yu garden was originally built 500 years ago and the market surrounds it. It’s a truly peaceful place, especially if you imagine it without the loud chinese tourists!

We also popped in to visit a Confucian Temple. People come here to pray for good things to happen to them and hang their wishes on the branches of the plants in the Temple. This place was also used as a ‘school’ and some of the scholars that graduated from here went on to become very important people in the chinese administration. It was strangely diserted...which made it all the more pleasant to visit. Harris says that Comfucius is such an inbuilt thing with the chinese, that they do not feel the need to visit his temples as tourists. Bah...

We then spent the rest of the day in various locations in the french concession. It’s a district in Shanghai that was in the hands of the french (funnily enough) and was developed ‘european style’. There are a lot of beautiful mansios and gated developments, as well as bars and cafes (and a lot of shops and some more modern malls). It is also where the building where the first meeting of the communist party took place is situated.

Hidden gem: we went to see a private museum of propaganda posters that is a little off the tourist trail. It was in the basement of a block of flats. It apparently has some government funding, BUT a little odd that there were no chinese tourists...only a handful of westeners.

Most expensive water of the trip: a small bottle of San Pellegrino for 45 CNY! To put in context, we have been paying between 3 and 5 CNY for bottled water of dubious origins.

As we got back early today, some of us went to the gym, whilst I took a nap. We then ventured out for dinner to a place that seemed to have excellent reviews: Lu 1039. It’s a classic Shanghai restaurant in a renovated colonial house. It was a little too...minimal I would say. And there weren’t many people about so although the food was ok, it felt a little bit of a sad place. We managed to enlist the help of a waiter to try and find a taxi back and explain where we were staying...and we got back safely without getting lost.

We are taking a last look around Shanghai tomorrow and then, we will be taking our first domestic flight. Given the number of people in town, I can only imagine the airport will be mobbed! 


Our last day in Shanghai!

This morning’s Starbucks run afforded a pleasant surprise: two groups of ladies doing thai-chi exercises to music. Inspiring how some people can be that coordinated at 7.30 in the morning...

We started off our day Longhua Buddhist Temple, a very well preserved example of such a contruction. Strangely enough though, like many other buildings in Shanghai, the exact position of the buildings in the complex had been changed from it’s original layout. Same as for a concert hall that literally was cut off from its foundations and dragged along 100 metres or so and placed above new foundations to move it further away from the flyover :-). I imagine it’s quite a feat of engineering!


Next, we moved to the other side of the river, in Pudong, where the tallest buildings in Shanghai have been built. All in the last 20 years! Before 1999, there was pretty much nothing except for some warehouses. We climbed to the top of the Financial Trade Centre (thanks to a very fast lift) for the view: awesome! ...and scary...as there were two glass strips running across one of the viewing platforms. The tower stands 492 metres high, dwarfing our beautiful Shard in London.

The new era of communism: it continues to be hard to reconcile China’s fundamental beliefs and the consumer focused population in the cities we have visited. Even the noodle delivery men on scooters have the latest Iphones!

Before lunch we made a stop at the Urban Planning Exhibition on People’s Square. Now...this may sound boring, BUT although the models of the buildings in Shanghai may have seemed a little naf, what stands out are three things: 
- the photographs side by side of various areas in Shanghai showing the early 80’s and 90’s and what it’s like now. In Europe it would be the equivalent of looking at photographs in the early 1900’s and then looking at year 2018. The speed at which Shanghai has been transformed is unbelievable.
- The planning of the town and infrastructure runs to 2035 (not something we would even begin to implement or think in Italy).
- Little Shanghai! Like Italia in miniatura...except that this is a town of 22m people...one third of the entire population in Italy!

Side effect of modernisation: Harris told us that, sadly, often parents leave their children to be looked after by the grandparents in their villages to go and work in cities far away. This means that they only see their offsprings mainly during their school holidays in the summer.


After lunch we did something that I am pretty sure not many guides suggest a visit to: we went to a pet market. But it is not a pet shop like situation in Europe. Other than a few sad kittens, grashoppers, some turteles and parrots, the main attraction were crickets. Crickets of all sorts. Small, big, quiet ones, and...much to my disbelief, fighting ones! We did also witness a fight but the two crickets in questions were not particularly aggressive. So it was a non event. But we walked away with one of the little insects (donated to Harris). We were given to understand it is not a cruel practice, but I was not really convinced, so I will have to google it as soon as I have some internet access. 

Funny aside of the cricket fighting: when they arrange for proper fights, the two contenders are given to a referee 5 days before so as to avoid any dodgey stuff (doping in the cricket world???).

As a consequence to the visit to the pet market, I think I have finally understood why in some of the parks we have visited there is the ‘no gambling’ sign. They must bet on absolutely anything!


Next up was M50, a series of modern art galleries and studios located in what used to be a textile factory. Some of the stuff on display had an interesting take on chinese art...and although I did not expect to be shopping, I did buy some art from a ‘well known’ artist...I put quotes because of course what they say and what is true, may not be the same thing. But I did love the pieces.

Last but not least, we squeezed in a quick visit to the Shanghai Museum. We skipped the bronze floor but hit the porcelain, calligraphy and paintings floors. A great ending to our Shanghai trip.
And that’s it really. We said a fairly icy goodbye to Harris (a hug or at least a handshake would have been in order after 3 days spent together, but it is not part of their culture).

Side note: for a population constantly praying for tranquillity and happiness, you have to wonder how come they never smile and why they shout, jump lines and always push people about.

Mr Tang drove us straight to the airport, Pudong (and shook our hands to say goodbye, quite an event!). This will have been our first domestic flight. I confess that after the chaos at the train station, I was a little apprehensive. But, much to our surprise, the domestic terminal was not particularly busy and the check in experience seemless.

‘Till tomorrow...

Zhangjiajie - 29th August 2018

Lee’s Boutique Resort

Our pickup last night was puntual, BUT I hadn’t checked the exact location of the Hotel and realised we were about an hour away! At 11pm it’s the last thing you want! On the upside, it’s located close to the entrance of the national park, so it did save us the drive in the morning.

You know they say you rarely get surprised positively? We were last night. First of all the driver was soooooooo nice. He took us to the hotel, carried our ridicoulously huge pieces of luggage and waited until the lady at the counter put us in the elevator to the room to leave us...and secondly the room... The lobby had a tree growing in the middle. Not a small tree, quite substancial. The room was very much in chinese classic design. Amazing...and guess what: we had our own tree in the room :-). But, you know what did have us in stitches? The heated toilet seat! You could pick your own temperature.

The Hallelujah mountains

So to the object of our detour to this location: the national park. Summer picked us up and we drove on to the entrance. We took a cable car part of the way up and then a shuttle bus but finally we got to where the trails begin. We spent the day walking in the forest on the side of the mountains overlooking the very distinctive sandstone pillars...the signature dish of the park you would say. There are different formations in various locations within the park. One such area is the glory mountains, also known as the floating mountains because the pillars look to float in the air when the haze (or clouds) surrounds them at sunrise. There was no floating during our visit, but the pillars are impressive. Some of them are 400m high. These are the views that inspired the Avatar mountains in the movie.

There was a lot of wowing and a lot of picture taking. However, I do promise you, that the photos will not do it justice. They are too two dimensional. There are things you just have to see for yourself. And it was hard work, by the way, as the walk meant a lot of climbing up and down steps in the heat. But I am no stranger to sweat on this trip...Yuck! Fear of heights is more of an issue on some of the platforms...and on the cable car with the wind I felt a little queezy. But what was the ending to the walk? A glass elevator that drops down the side of the mountain! :-)

A taste of home: we met dishy italian attempting to order food in the same place we were at, and ended up ‘lending’ him our guide as an interpreter.

On the way to the airport, we stopped at a gallery where the artist ‘paints’ canvas using natural materials reduced to powder: rock, sand, wood etc. And paints local landscapes mainly. There were some beautiful pieces and despite fearing that we may balooning early on the trip on the luggage front, Lucia bought a piece.

The guide: we had Summer for the day (stage name for work). This young 29 year old kept up quite a pace throughout the day. If my phone is to be believed we walked 10km and went up 48 flight of stairs in the space of 3 hours!  But, she must have been a little blind as she thought mine and Lucia’s age as mid 30’s. Blind or wanting a good tip. Not sure which I prefer.

So, here we are now...a five hour wait for our late night flight to Xi’an. We won’t be finding our beds until around 2am, BUT, it was worth it. One word for Zhangjiajie national park: wow!

Xian - 30th August 2018

The army and more!

...second domestic flight that lands ahead of schedule! But still...between the late take off time and the 50 minute transfer, we only got to bed at 3 am. 

Rain had initially been forecasted for today but instead we got sunshine. But the heat was something else. The only saving grace was the slightly lower humidity...We met our guide for the day for a late 10 am start, Phoenix, and our first intro to Xi’an was to visit a neolitic site about 6,000 years old. They’ve done a great job in creating media etc that actually shows what life would have been like as the site itself needs a little imagination. 

Interesting burial habits: children were not buried with adults. They were put in vases buried under the floor, so that their mothers would have them close by and they would not be alone, and with a hole on top for their souls to come in and out.

We then moved onto one of the highlights of the whole trip: the terracotta soldiers! The park is a fair distance from Xi’an but there is no drive longer than 10 minutes that we’ve been on, that I have not taken the opportunity to have a little nap :-).

To get to the buildings that house the soldiers, you walk through a substancial park. The terracotta soldiers form part of the burial site for one of the emperors. It was suggested to him that having his soldiers killed when he died would not make him popular, so he opted for this version of a memorial. The work that has been done to reconstruct some of the 6,000 estimated soldiers is amazing. And seeing them lined up it’s quite a sight. They are still digging the site, and archeologists have ‘hospitals’ where the bodies get reconstructed. All in plain sight of the visitors. There is actually only one soldier that was found whole. 

Criticism: building number one houses the largest number of soldiers but you have to wonder how long they will last in the heat. Their ideal conservation temperature is around 20 degrees, but it must have been 35 to 40 in there today. It is amazing how a country that can build almost a whole new city in no time at all, cannot install a few air conditioning units to be sure to preserve one of the most unique sights they have.

Our last visit of the day was to the winter palace. It was build for one of the Emperor’s concubines. He treated her just like an empress. The place is huge. A small town really. A series of buildings and thermal baths at the foot of a hill. Very pretty, but most of it is not in it’s original form and has been rebuilt (a common feature in China).


By this point we were both a little boiled by the heat and tired. After dropping Lucia off to do her laundry, I went off to see a show recommended by Phoenix: the Tang Dynasty show. She waited with me until it was time to go in to avoid my getting lost :-) and we had a chance to chat. She absolutely loves Xi’an but her dream is to travel abroad. And guess which is the first place she wants to see when she eventually gets the chance? London! And who can blame her...

The show itself is the story of the only woman to ever become an Emperess (Wu Zetian). Amazing theatre and truly beautiful show. If you’re ever down these parts, it’s worth a visit.

We leave Xi’an tomorrow for Guilin on our last domestic flight of this trip. Night night!

Guilin and Yangshou - 31st August to the 1st September 2018

The longest day...

Another fun filled day here in China!

We left Xi’an on our Hainan flight this morning and landed at 12sh in Guilin. I wasn’t all that social. For those who know me well, early morning starts mean I don’t speak for at least a couple of hours. After which, on the plane, I slept for the whole duration of the flight :-). Poor Lucia!

Guilin is a small town by chinese standards. The district houses about 4.7m people, but the city itself is populated by only 700,000 people. We found Colin waiting for us at arrivals and he gave us two choices (time was a little tight today): lunch or dropping our luggage off at the hotel. For those who know Lucia, it is clear what choice was made...

We stopped off at a roadside cafe (chinese fastfood if you like), and had noodles and a drink. We spent 34 rmb for the 3 of us...our lowest tally yet! (It’s about 4.5 euros).


We made three stops: the seven star park, elephant trunk hill and the reed flute cave. The first two weren’t particularly memorable, but the reed flute cave was truly a sight to behold. It’s existance was only revealed in 1959. Before that, local people used it as a refuge especially during the war. It is a vast cave with formations of stalagtites and stalagmites. The excellent work done by the curators of the cave in installing coloured lighting is amazing.


Our day would have finished here, but Colin asked wether we had had a chance to see a tea plantation. We looked at each other and although we were really tired, we decided that we would not travel these parts again any time soon (I fear it’s been our motto every day :-) ). And so off we went to the tea farm. It turned out to be a very informative visit. Just so you know, the tea we drink in europe in our little sachets, they use as compost! We were also shown the tea ceremony and tasted some of the teas. And, of course, we did not let the chance to buy something pass: we bought some tea! I confess having never spent that sort of money on tea...not even over a whole year! But, the guy seemed to think the tea would make us live longer...so it may turn out to be money well spent.


Finally, we made our way to our little home for the next two nights. A small boutique hotel in classic chinese architecture. Cute. We looked ridicoulous (again) dragging our ever increasing luggage from the car park to the entrance. There was no lift! But a kind young man helped us to carry everything up the stairs.

Recurring issue with Lucia: not for the first time on the trip, Lucia thought she had heard one thing, but the actual thing turned out to be something different. As we didn’t have the strength to go anywhere for dinner, we decided we would eat in the hotel. Lucia said that there was a ‘dumpling buffet’ at the place. So we took a quick shower and made our way downstairs. The dumpling buffet was a course on how to make dumplings :-)! Still, not a bad outcome. We learned to make dumplings and met a couple from Bologna (Guido and Chiara), a very nice couple. We had a bit of a laugh exchanging our chinese experiences. Guido is actually celiac, so for him travelling in China has been a little bit of a nightmare foodwise. We had some of ‘our’ dumplings as a starter but decided we were going off piste for the second time since we set foot in China: we ate a club sandwich and a burger respectively for dinner.

So now it’s 9.30, and I confess to be writing fromthe bed where I hope to be asleep by 10 at the latest...I (we) are really really really tired. A fun day on the water awaits us tomorrow: a cruise on the river Li and a visit to a local village. 

A potentially leasurely day...
Our morning began early and wet! We unfortunately woke up to rain...but, met Colin smiling downstairs and made our way to the harbeour (about an hour and a half from the city) to board our cruise on the river Li. As we made our way to the boat we realised that the better seats were upstairs...but we weren’t sure where our allocated ones where. By this point Colin had abandoned us as he was due to meet us at the arrival point of the cruise. Much to our surprise and delight, we were upstairs in a small ‘business class’ corner at the front of the boat. Only two tables and the tea lady. In all fairness all the tables and seats looked equally comfortable but the idea of being a little away from the generally loud chinese was a nice add on. We ended up sharing our cabin with a chinese family and some friends of theirs. The son, Enrico (stage name), spoke very good Italian as he studied the language for 6 months in Italy before starting his Engineering course this september at the Politecnico in Turin. How unlikely is that! The family seemed lovely umming and ahing as he translated for them our conversation.


So the four hours passed quickly as we cruised down the river in unique scenery...surrounded by mountains shaped like panettoni (my take on it) and pandori (Lucia’s take). 

Funniest: the number of selfies taken by the chinese on top of the hundreds of pictures taken by the two boats photographers was not to be believed. Obviously they also impeded taking pictures of the scenery (not so funny).

Ideal time to take photographs on the upper deck: whilst the chinese were having lunch! They do love their food. Everyone without exception had brought extra food (lunch was being served on the boat anyway).

As the day wore on the rain died down and by the time we got to Yangshou (our drop off point), the sun was attempting to make an appearance. We strolled through the streets surrounded by shops and souvenirs and met Colin at our pick up point: MacDonalds!


Our drive back was through rural countryside amongst cultivated land. As we drove further and further up the mountains, we were able to view more and more our journey on the boat from the top. We eventually made a stop at Xianggong mountain. 

Confession: we were feeling a little tired and the idea of climbing yet another mountain, however small, was not at the top of our wish list...BUT Colin assured us we would be blown away by the view. And, although I think I broke my personal sweating record for the trip (the steps seemed to never end), the view was indeed truly special.

And that was it for the day! We drove back to Guilin in horrendous traffic, made a stop at the only Catholic church in town (there are only 4,000 catholics in this town) to check if they had an evening mass (to Lucia’s disappointment there wasn’t one), and FINALLY went up to our room for a well deserved shower. 

Lucia was up for exploring other eateries, but I was too tired to face the language barrier in a new place, so we ate at the small restaurant in our hotel. We have another early start tomorrow. We take a train to Guangzhou (Canton)...and that will be our last day in mainland China!

Guangzhou - 2nd September 2018

Travelling by ciuf ciuf...again!

We had a difficult night! At around 2am a group of drunken chinese holidaymakers came back to their rooms on our floor, and shouted, laughed and slammed doors for about an hour and a half. The guard downstairs tried timidly to tell them to be quiet, but they went ahead anyhow. This meant we got nearly no sleep at all.

Some chinese peculiar quirks we’ve picked up on: lack of spacial awareness, complete lack of respect for other human beings, totally uncapable of standing in a line...I could go on...

So, tired and a not in the best of spirits, we dragged our luggage from our drop off at the station to the entrance to a very old version of a train station in Guilin. It was a challenge to find the right boarding point but we managed to get ourselves on the right train and before we knew it we were in Guangzhou. The scenery along the way was beautiful countryside and rice farms.

Unfortunate coincidences: the train station only had stairs, our pick up person decided to wait quite a way from the exit, and it was raining cats and dogs!


Our accomodation in Guangzhou is amazing. The hotel is in one of the skyscrapers and occupies the top floors. So reception is on the 65th floor and our room on the 60th. The view is spectacular. And...incredible but true, the staff speak english! 

We spent the afternoon sightseeing: city flower plaza, a memorial to a king from 200 bc and the old medicine market. There were many dried up root and vegetables we did not recognise, but one of the strangest things we did see, were bags and bags of dry sea horses...a very expensive item (it is ground into powder to then be used).

Language breakthrough for Lucia: we dropped her off at the beautiful french built catholic cathedral for a sunday mass in english...a real treat as last time she had to go to one in mandarin!

Coffee break: this was my alternative to mass. I took the chance to get to know our guide, Janet (stage name). She’s single, likes travelling and gave the impression she felt alone. She has the same problem that many of us single people have as we get older: friends get married, have children, and therefore less time (or oppurtunity) to hang out. Be it in normal day to day life or on holiday. You then have to decide whether you still do what you want to do or wait around and be miserable. She seems to have opted for being a little miserable and if any of you men are interested out there, I believe she’s in the market for a husband! 


Our last visit was to Shamian Island, a small island just across the bridge from the market. It is a similar spot to the french concession in Shanghai. It is much quieter and very relaxing. And...well, pretty. It used to be the customs and trading area for goods back in the old days. These days, Starbucks occupies one of the beautiful buildings overlooking the park running through the middle.

And that’s it for China! We went back to our hotel to shower and get something to eat. We leave for Hong Kong tomorrow morning on our last asian train ride.

Hong Kong - 3rd to the 5th September 2018

Asia’s world city???

We were quite sad to leave our super amazing hotel this morning...but no rest for the wicked! ..and it took some thinking to load the luggage in a normal sized taxi :-). We took our last chinese train from Guangzhou East to Hong Kong. It currently takes about 2 hours as it is the equivalent of a regional train in Italy. BUT, three weeks from now, a bullet train will connect Hong Kong to several cities in mainland China.

We found a chinese man born in Tunbridge Wells picking us up! He moved to Hong Kong about 26 years ago and his brother still lives in Orpington. How unlikely is that??? The first thing that hits you, having crossed the border, it’s the wide spread use of a language we understand: english! Oh how we have missed it...

As always we were on a tight schedule, so having dropped off the luggage in our smallest room to date (still perfectly fine of course), we grabbed a bite whilst waiting for Timothy. He is the tour leader for a group orienteering tour of Hong Kong. There was only 11 of us, and amongst us there was an australian couple from italian descent (so they spoke both italian and english). We only know because Lucia managed to strike up a conversation...she was the friendly sort today.

Incident of the day: I managed to stumble on some costruction material on the sidewalk and flew in the middle of the road. Fear not for my health though, as my camera got the worst of it. I got away with a scraped knee and a bruise.

The choice of the orienteering tour was to then have a full day (the day after tomorrow) of Hong Kong touring on our own and seeing what we were actually interested in. We haven’t really ventured much out alone without a guide whilst in China. English gives you a some sense of security I guess!

First impressions: we expected a shiny Hong Kong so we were a little disappointed as it feels a little scruffy from the street level. BUT from the hill tops of Hong Kong island looking down, it looks pretty amazing. 

There is a lot of refurbishment and general building work going on, so I am guessing that a couple of years from now we will be looking at a shinier city again. For example, amongst the new builds there is a chinese opera house. 

The one constant throughout is the height of the buildings...so many sky scrapers! There is a funny mix of newer constructions and old, ugly and decrepit ones...more on Hong Kong Island from a first look. In Kolwoon where our hotel is, there are a lot of posh shops and swanky hotels, so the decrepit, at least close by, is down to a minimum.

We have a pretty special experience planned for tonight: we will be eating in a three michelin starred cantonese restaurant. As luck (not really because it’s the reason I booked our room here) would have it, it’s in our hotel! On the downside, we are eating chinese food yet again :-))).

I look forward to boring you with the details tomorrow!

T’Ang Court...three stars really???

Our starred dinner was a little bit underwhelming. The atmosphere and decor were ok’sh but felt a little tired. The service was questionable. With the menu in my hand I attempted to ask for advice but as I had pointed to the menu wanting to ask questions, the waiter pretty much just said: have the set menu. There was no explanation, no talking up the dishes...nothing. The food was ok but again there was nothing that you really thought was outstanding. And they topped it all with an espresso the size of a cappuccino...not just a little long, an actual cappuccino sized cup full of coffee. This begs the question: are asian Michelin stars different from European/US ones?


Macau!

Today we took the ferry over to neighbouring the more portuguese Macau. On the hour long crossing we arranged to meet our guide Clara a little earlier than scheduled and saw the new bridge (yet to be opened) between Macau and Hong Kong. A massive undertak8ng! It is due to open at the end of the year and it is as beautiful as it is long (55km).

Clara: the guide merits a more in depth introduction. She was, as Lucia put it, a little Hitler! Relaxed is not a word that would ever apply. From start to finish we felt like naughty schoolchildren being led around, almost afraid to ask questions. She was going to keep to the schedule whether we liked it or not. BUT, she was one of the best guides we’ve had on the trip. Very knowledgeable. On the downside, she did attempt jokes now and again, but she was laughing on her own (some people say I’m the same).


We loved Macau. The bridges linking up the islands are beautiful, the older colonial part interesting, and there are a large number of skyscrapers like in Hong Kong. About two thirds of the land is reclaimed land, which is amazing in it’s own right. As the portuguese could not get more from the chinese, they just created some from the river! Overall it seems better looked after than Hong Kong. We ate in a potuguese restaurant that was family run. We ended up with a lot of bacalhau dishes (cod to the english amongst us). The food was excellent. Clara had our leftovers wrapped up to take away for her evening dinner so that there would be no waste. It was actually good to see because throughout China we had seen so many chinese over order, and the waiters at the end of the meal would throw the food away.


We made one last stop at the Venician in Tapai island. Macau has a large number of casinos and the main area wher
e they are located, is not dissimilar to Las Vegas. It apparently only took 6 months for the first casino that opened to recoup the money spent building it! Here, unlike Monaco, it is an industry that still produces huge returns. Probably due to the fact that the chinese will bet on anything!

Size matters: I have been to Las Vegas...I can assure you that the Venician in Macau is twice as big as its Las Vegas brother.

We took the shuttle back to the ferry terminal and I slept all the way back to Hong Kong. We had our last chinese dinner not far from the hotel (nice dumplings) in a small restaurant that used to have a Michelin star. Again, I have to question the scale used to measure star worthy places here in Asia...

I am shuttered! The miles (or kilometres) are starting to tell...tomorrow we have one last day in Hong Kong and then we are catching a late night flight to Sydney. Goodnight!


More on Hong Kong
We overslept a little this morning...a rare treat on this trip. We had a whole day at our disposal to see Hong Kong on our own (also a first). We took the Fivestar ferry over to Hong Kong island to visit the maritime museum (we felt that, as the theme in Hong Kong was nautical, it would would be worth seeing). And it was. Hong Kong is spread out over a large number of islands, with the two biggest being Lantau (where the airport is) and Hong Kong island. Our own abode, during our stay, was in Kowloon. Both Hong Kong Island and Kowloon have felt like two huge shopping centres. 

There is very little of historical value left. However, one of the few things worth doing was taking the ferry! It used to be the only way to get to and from Kowloon and Hong Kong island. The boats look so decrepit that they could actually pass for the ones used in the 1800’s :-). It’s fast (10 minutes or so) and it’s the cheapest thing in Hong Kong! 


On our first day we had taken a sampan ride in Aberdeen fishing village. There used to be more than 5,000 fishermen in this area, but they are now reduced to a handful and some of them are now devoted to the god of tourism. But at least you can see a hint of what things used to be like.

Despite Lucia preparing for thunderstorms, today was another scorcher. So, feeling a little hot and botherekd in the wrong way, we decided to go double decker and hopped on a hop on hop off bus to go and see a temple, a staircase that had seen better days and an old police complex. We stumbled into a Lebanese restaurant for lunch. It was packed with westeners. In fact, Hong Kong, is the first place we’ve visited since landing in China, where you can actually see westeners in any significant number. We were definately a tiny minority up till now.


Before going back to pick up our luggage and head for the airport, we did a little shopping ourselves...oh well, Lucia did. She now owns trainers that would not have looked out of place on Goldrake!


Despite having overall been underwhelmed by our hotel, we did have a lovely surprise when we got back to get changed. They had us use the top floor facilities where the health club and pool are and so we had a relaxing shower before boarding our scary taxi. The driver seemed to think he was driving in a video game...

White bridges: on the way to the airport we had to cross a couple of the beautiful bridges that link the islands up...awesome!

So, here we are, one last shopping opportunity away from leaving Hong Kong and the chinese people who have accompanied us for the last couple of weeks.

Sydney here we come!

Sydney - 6th to the 9th September 2018

Last port of call!

Sydney needs little introduction. Its iconic symbol, the Opera House, is known throughout the world. Sightseeing falls a little short on historical content (after all Australia was a penal colony for Great Britain), but the Opera House, the harbour bridge, the bothanical gardens with Mrs Macquaries seat, and the tastefully developed docks, make it a town that feels homely. Somewhere you might actually want to live in...if only it wasn’t so far away from the rest of the world!

I have been here before of course...the year was 1999. I was young and on garden leave, and no idea of what the future held. I had three weeks to take a peek at a country that’s the size of a continent! 

This time we’re JUST getting to know Sydney, and for some of us, Lucia, it’s the first time. And after the overpopulation in china and the lack of european etiquette we’ve endured for the past two weeks, it’s actually nice to just be here amongst overly polite english speaking people...even though they might be descendants of jailbirds :-).

We treated ourselves to a concert at the opera house followed by dinner on the quay tonight. I was glad I took a nap in the afternoon (not much sleep on the overnight plane for me last night), as it meant that I was able to enjoy the evening. Not the same can be said about the ride around town earlier in the day, as I kept nodding off after lunch...and so I finally gave up (and Lucia with me) and went back to the hotel.

A final consideration: the harbour bridge and the opera house are even more beautiful at night!


 Bondi beach! ...and more...
So...we have a car! A small SUV that we took full advantage of today. In order to complete the basic Australian initiation for Lucia, we were still missing the beach, koalas, kangaroos and a little countryside. We did our best! It was a sunny day for the beach and a few surfers were out on the waves. They’ve added a skate park since I was last here, and I definately don’t remember the graffitis. But they are both cool additions to the place. 


...but we drove on, out to a wildlife park. For those not in the know, I was a little disappointed on my very first encounter with the sweet little koalas. I realized that they were smelly little animals! Eating the eucaliptus leaves gives a nice pungent smell to their escrements. So, this time, I was prepared. They also do tend to hug the branches as if their lives depended on it, always in their doped out way (I’m guessing it’s the leaves that make them drowsy and sleep 18 hours a day)...I sometimes feel I’d like to be a koala...you?

We were lucky enough to also see one of the wallabys with a joey in their pouch, much to the delight of the australian school children visiting the park at the same time. There were also plenty of kangaroos of all shapes and colours. Enough to satisfy Lucia’s curiosity at least.


With the sun out, we ventured further out to the blue mountains. Unfortunately, about 20 km out, the weather started to change and we saw the three sisters under a drizzle (could have been worse though, as the clouds didn’t promise anything good). 

But our real adventure had yet to start! We drove back on what was supposed to be an hour and a half ride. Unfortunately , the police had given chase to a motorbike earlier in the day through one of the tunnels in Sydney and there was a fatality. One of the main arteries was closed off and it took us two and a half hours to drive the last 8 km to the hotel! After four hours in the car, there were some misgivings about going to the theatre (we had booked a play at the Opera house), BUT, you don’t drop in on Sydney every day of the week! So, we left the car with the valet and under pouring rain (of course it would start to rain again just at this precise moment), rushed to the theatre just in time for the curtains to go up. As we walked back afterwards, with our feet squelching in the waterlogged shoes, we agreed it had been worth the effort. We were convinced we’d be seeing a classic play, but we ended up watching a modern version that was absolutely hilarious!

Tomorrow is our very last day in Australia and indeed on the trip. Sunday will be spent travelling back to Europe. I’ll be seeing the ‘orange’ friend I met on my trip in Cuba! More on that later...night night!


 Callala Bay
This is the end...the trip was engineered to have one last night in this tiny town of 2,000 souls about two hours away from Sydney. Why? Because about 18 months ago I shared a room with Michele whilst taking a trip to Cuba. She’s a special lady who had to nurse her husband through cancer for two years before he died. Since then she’s taken to travelling the world on her own, sometimes to the dismay of her kids :-). It was clear tonight, when they took the microphone, that they love their mother to bits. With all her quirks: her love for the colour orange, the total disorganisation, the wanting to do too much (always), but also for her zest for life, the love for her family and her desire to dance, always. Just yesterday she was told off by a ranger in the bay. Why? Because it was a nice day and she had decided to go skinny dipping (swimming naked at 70!).

Tomorrow morning we leave at 5 am and start our long journey back. Sydney to Hong Kong and then Hong Kong to London. Me and Lucia will then part our ways. She’ll be heading for Milan and me for Nice and the office in Monaco. It’s been grand, some would say...
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